Many villa gardens in Fethiye and Seydikemer have olive trees. Pruning them properly helps the tree stay healthy, let in light and fruit regularly. Pruning at the wrong time, or too hard, can weaken the tree and cut the crop for several seasons. This guide sums up the basic principles for olive trees in a home garden.
The right time: after harvest, before flowering
Olive trees are usually pruned after the harvest, between late winter and early spring. In this area, the harvest is mostly finished in autumn and early winter. When pruning, keep the following in mind:
- Prune after the frosts. Fresh pruning cuts are vulnerable to cold. In higher areas with a risk of frost, wait until the coldest period has passed.
- Finish before flowering. Heavy pruning once the tree has started to flower can reduce that year's crop.
- Choose a dry spell. Some diseases, such as olive knot, spread more easily through pruning cuts in wet, humid weather. Ideally, a few dry days should follow pruning.
Suckers growing from the base and trunk, and water shoots growing fast and straight up, can also be removed during the year.
Which branches to remove
The aim is to let light and air into the middle of the tree. Olives fruit mainly on the shoots that grew the previous year. So each year you need to let part of the tree produce new growth.
- Dead, broken and diseased branches: These come off first.
- Water shoots: Fast, vertical shoots from the main branches that usually bear no fruit.
- Suckers: Shoots from the base of the trunk and the roots waste the tree's energy.
- Branches that rub together or grow inwards: Thin these out to open up the centre of the tree.
- Branches that grow too tall: The tree's height can be kept in check to make harvesting and care easier.
Common mistakes
- Pruning too much in one year. Heavy pruning stresses the tree and triggers a flush of water shoots. On old or neglected trees, renewal should be spread over several years.
- Cutting too close to or too far from the trunk. Cut just outside the slightly swollen area where the branch joins the trunk. Long stubs can rot.
- Using blunt or dirty tools. Crushed bark heals poorly. Tools should be sharp and cleaned after cutting diseased wood.
- Leaving large wounds ragged. On thick branches, a clean cut surface helps the wound heal.
Safety
Safety: Working on high branches from a ladder carries a risk of falling. Set the ladder on firm, level ground and don't work alone. Using a chainsaw requires training and protective equipment. Leave large or old trees, and branches near power lines, to a professional.
Frequently asked questions
Does an olive tree need pruning every year? A light prune every year is generally better than a heavy prune every few years. The tree stays balanced and the crop varies less from year to year.
Should I put anything on the cuts after pruning? Small cuts usually heal on their own. What to do with large cuts depends on the tree's condition; if there are signs of disease, ask a specialist.
My tree has grown too big. Can I cut it down to size in one go? It isn't recommended. Lowering the height over several seasons puts less strain on the tree.
Together with the rest of the garden
Olive pruning works best when it is planned together with watering and feeding. To get the irrigation system ready for the season, see the guide on garden irrigation system checks. For pruning and seasonal garden work, see the garden maintenance page.
This guide is for general information. Every home is different; for your own home, ask a company that has seen the work on site for a written quotation.